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Posted 5 years ago
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Hi Barbara,
I would also suggest you go to your Netflix account and adjust the "Playback Settings" www.netflix.com/YourAccount
They offer a high, medium, and low or auto, "Data Usage
per Screen” as to the playback download and watching quality.
This means, an example movie that might use 1 to 1.5 GB per hour, at the HD setting, will only use 0.7 GB on medium, or 0.3 GB on the low setting.
Quite a difference in bandwidth savings if you were to watch several movies a month.
Hope it helps.Everett
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I have re-educated myself on the usage of the internet since buy a little farm in the boondocks. Speed viruses data moved. I came from a cable system with a 30 up 12 down setup.
Data! What was I worried about, I moved it like pouring a cup of coffee. Now when everyone else started using data like flushing a toilet, I got lag. Dam those other users! I was paying for this! The data is mine!
Data caps are going to be an up and coming concern in the internet lifestyle we live today. If I was still on cable, I would have no worries. But I'm not.
I do want more data per month. If I had 30GB, i would feel better. If I had 50GB, I would be good, for my family size and normal usage.
Just reading the experiences and suggestions of some of the other members, I have made several changes to my computer and browser settings. It has helped.
This is my first week with Exede. My other choices for internet access other than Exede would have been a G4 cell phone access system. It had a 100GB cap, but the speed would drop from 4 GB to .5GB when the towers really hot hit during the busy times, night, weekends.
I have not noticed any unknown data loss or unexplained tracking changes. My speeds have been more than advertized (19 down 6 up) and less. I do feel the lag when I open a new website page at first. But YouTube videos, open and run smother. But they do eat some data.
I would like more data, but I will adapt until it's offered and or available in my area.
As for the personal drama with name calling, profanity "I did not see it?" This site is about, for the most part; DATA. Either we can not get it. Or we want more. At recess, take the other stuff out on the playground. It use to work for me when I was a kid. We did not have DATA, back then.
So, that's my spiel, and I'm sticking to it.
Everett
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LorrieL, Champion
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If you don't mind staying up until midnight that is...I wait till LNFZ starts at 12 and then set up playlater to record a few tv shows or a movie or two and then I go to sleep...when I wake up, playlater has recorded what I specified to my hard drive, so I can watch it whenever I want without using up data allowance. I think playlater also has a small fee monthly subscription plan, but the "lifetime license" was very inexpensive so I went with that...I love being able to stream all those shows to this "online dvr" program while I sleep, and then watch when I want to without using up all my data.
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Thanks.
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PlayLater does not have this time delayed option yet. They say they are working on it though.
But, if you start the program at say 12:01am, and select several movies, videos or shows to download, it will download them all. Just have to make sure it can be done by 5:00am, or your will turn into a punkin.
If you have a remote hard drive connected to your router/ modem, you do not need to have your computer on during the downloads.
Hope it helps,
Everett
david, Champion
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I started PlayLater and set six videos to record. I then canceled them one at a time (which left the restart and delete buttons)
I then recorded my mouse clicks 'restarting' each video with the Mouse Recorder. I saved the recorder file and scheduled it with the calendar for midnight.
Before bed, I choose up to six (I modified the six show file to be a five, four, three, two, and one show file with the Mouse Recorder Pro's Advanced Editor) shows and make PlayLater full screen, schedule the mouse clicks for 11:59 pm and leave my computer awake, with the screen off. Full screen ensures the buttons are always in the same place for the mouse clicks.
I took about an hour to make the click files perfect, and it sometimes messes up show #6, but it works pretty well.
I set up Windows Task Scheduler to force shutdown my computer at 5 am, preventing recordings from happening into my 'not free' time.
It seems a little long and complicated, but it wasn't that hard, it just took a few tries to get it right. Now it takes just a few minutes each night and we are getting quite the collections of shows we've been wanting to watch.
It's kinda round-about but we are getting a good collection of shows to watch at night. Roku supports a PlayOn channel, so it streams the PlayLater shows from the computer to the Roku via the wireless network (not the internet, just the router)
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Thanks for the info. I use PlayLater a lot myself, but I will check out your suggestions. I have just been starting the movie download at 12, and then hope they finish be 5 am.
Thanks again and welcome to the forum.
Everett
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Playlater/playon version 4 has now added an off-time queue meaning that playlater now works perfectly for anyone who wishes to use their free zone to download movies without staying up. Go to https://www.playon.tv/download to
start being able to finally watch netflix.
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LorrieL, Champion
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I do not have personal experience, but I would bet there is a way in the admin settings for each registered user.
Also, for in home use, there are routers than can be set to limits for each connection "computer or other devices" to control bandwidth and or data. This would include wireless routers also.
Hope it helps.
Everett
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If your are going over your data from playing a 3 minute video with 8 days to go, then either: you have something eating your data up all day long, or someone in your house is using up your data. A 3-minute YouTube video would cost roughly 50 MB. (Assuming 1 GB/hour of data used) We had 10 GB for several years before changing to the 25 plan. It was a rare month we ran out. Using the data usage tools to monitor and 'budget' your data is key when you have this kind of internet.
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Why do I sense this may end badly with the demise of the LNFZ and EBFZ with simply increased caps being the unintended consequence? ;)
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Everette: I'm no expert and only questioning for curiosity not correctness. I thought 'Time" was more important than size. Example: If it takes me 30 min to download a program at 4MBs and 4 mins at 12MBs...I'm saving on data usage...right? If what your saying is watching a 1 hour movie at a lower quality will yield less data usage. Or am I way off base? Streaming is different than data?
Also, how is your latency and jitter ? I get 'choppy' movies because of this F grade I get with megapath's speedplus.
Thanks Ricky P.
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Specifically the rate at which data is transmitted affects the quality of playback (not the quality of the movie itself), a low rate of transfer can cause lag or jitter as it's often called.
I think what Everett (but I'm not Everett nor do I play him on the internet) is referring to is the quality of the video itself, standard definition (480p) vs high definition (720P, 1080p). The same movie in recorded in SD requires less data than the same movie recorded in HD. The same movie recorded in HD (720p) requires less data than the same movie recorded in HD (1080p). Those of us whose eyes aren't as sharp as they used to be due to age frequently can't tell the difference between HD 720P vs HD 1080P, although the difference between SD and HD is readily apparent.
Watching the same one hour movie in 720P vs 1080P consumes less data and requires lower transmission rate to view/stream it smoothly.
Streaming is simply the manner in which that data is transferred. Think of it in terms of a hose. Assuming you're not in Buffalo or subfreezing weather, take your hose, attach it to your outdoor faucet and stretch it out straight across your lawn (also assuming it's not a pocket hose). Go back to the faucet, turn it on and note the delay before the water starts flowing out the end - the longer the hose the longer the delay. That's the inherent latency governed by physics (hose length and water pressure in this case - distance to satellite and speed of light in the case of Exede).
Now introduce some congestion into the experiment - go three quarters of the way out, tame the beast that's probably thrashing about wildly, bend the hose in half and the water flowing out the end will eventually trickle to a stop. Relieve the pressure of the bend, and eventually the flow will return to normal. Any congestion along the path the movie is taking to your device has an analogous effect. Any throttling imposed by the streamer of the movie to balance loads on their servers can have similar effects.
I was going to try megapath's speedplus, but on arriving there noticed it's Java based. Typically, for satellite users, Java based speed tests are inaccurate for a variety of technical reasons that I won't get in to.
Testmy.net generally yields more accurate results with one caveat: explicitly choose your download and upload sizes rather than automatic settings (although it does a good job of ensuring it has an accurate sample size in most cases). The typical recommendation is to choose a download size of 12MB or greater, and an upload size of 3 MB or greater although these vary. The reason for choosing larger sizes is to overcome the inherent latency of satellite transmissions, which negatively skews the results with smaller sizes.
And of course, do be aware that these speed tests are consuming your data and to anyone actually trying this experiment remember to turn the faucet off ;)
Those really interested in streaming media should checkout https://www.aterlo.com/ and it's progress. Unfortunately, heavy adoption of this innovation will likely follow the law of unintended consequences eventually rendering the LNFZ and EBFZ useless.
Right now it's in beta but I think it's safe to say it won't be free on release to the public and will require a more robust router (wouldn't be surprise if they offer pre-configured routers for sale - I'm guessing they're simply turning your router into the equivalent of a DVR).
As touched upon by Everett, those new to satellite internet should forget what they know about traditional ISPs when moving to satellite - some re-education and greater knowledge is needed to overcome its limitations (but those are good things).
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Several post have mentioned this issue and Kimberly said they "Exede tech's" are working on it.
I go by the clock for my timezone and have not been burned yet. And I would think Exede would make any time mix ups right with you if it's their problem with their tracking/ timing software.
If they can see a spike in data usage after 12:01 am, but the gig's hit your regular hours allotment of Gig's, they should make it right and reimburse you.
I do hope they find a fix or way of notification for the LNFZ time start and finish. But I do not think Exede is out to blatantly burn up anyone's Gig's. If there are issues with your timezone and the overlap of the beam that serves your area, they should account for it some how.
I hope they resolve any issues you might have. Just ask for help from the Exede rep's. They do listen and respond.
Everett
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You might want to take a look at Aterlo Nightshift or PlayLater:
https://www.aterlo.com/
http://www.playon.tv/playlater/
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I will try the other test for a more 'accurate' test.
However, as you said, accuracy is not the 'real' problem. How do we get around this?
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Aterlo NightShift does allow scheduling - however, has specific hardware support requirements and leverages your router. At the same time it would appear NightShift only supports Netflix at this time. You'll find some who use it on the other forum at http://www.wildblueworld.com/forum/forum.php
Neither are free but the links given above provide all of the details.
PlayLater effectively turns your computer into a recorder, while Nightshift turns a supported router into a recorder.
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I'm assuming "over the air" means similar to the old TV antennae on the roof. In my case, we live in the mountains and cannot get a single TV or radio station. Sounds like a great remedy for areas with decent reception capabilities. Thanks so much for the info.
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2. This software links to your Hulu and Netflix and downloads the videos, just like a DVR. Also, just like a DVR, it takes the same amount of time to download as the video takes to play; thus, if you use your five hour window, you can get two movies a night (or three short movies, I guess)
3. For bandwidth, assume 1 GB per hour of streaming video media at SD. Assume 3-5 GB per hour at HD. This is a pretty good estimate, regardless of source. Netflix, however, has an option to turn down your quality for all videos in the settings, but at the lowest, you still just under 1 GB/hr.
4. For size, assume 1 GB per hour of video. So a 32 GB drive will hold 32 hours of video, roughly.
5. PlayLater has no means of setting a timer. I use another freeware called Mouse Recorder Pro 2. It simply records your mouse clicks. You can then set the mouse click file to 'play' at midnight, thus you do not have to stay up. You just have to set your screen to be in the right place for the mouse clicks to click on stuff. I accomplish this by recording my mouse clicks with PlayLater at full screen.
6. I accomplish movies and 1 hour TV shows with a mouse click file I created that restarts the download within PlayLater. I set it up to click 'Restart' on each file in the My Recordings section at 11:59 pm. Before I go to bed, I set up five shows or two movies. I click to download and allow the download to start. Once the 'Cancel' button appears, I cancel the download (in the My Recording section). The buttons then change to 'Delete' and 'Restart'. I recorded my mouse clicks clicking on 'Restart' for each video. My screen size allows there to be six 'Restart' buttons, plenty for 5 1 hour shows. I also have a mouse click file for 5,4,3,2, and 1 shows to be 'Restarted'. I load proper file for how many shows I'm recording that night.
7. Scheduling the mouse click file to play at 11:59pm clicks on 'Restart' for each video. It's not a perfect system; I find sometimes the files do not download and when I'm on wireless, they almost never download. I hard lined my laptop into the router and it solved that problem.
8. I also recorded a mouse click file that right clicks on the PlayLater icon in the system tray (lower right in Windows) that selects 'Exit'. If a video is still downloading, I click 'Yes' to confirm canceling the download. If a video is still downloading, the mouse click will hit the 'Yes' button. If it is not downloading a video, it will instantly quit PlayLater and the click which confirms the 'Yes' button click harmlessly on the desktop below. I play this Quit PlayLater mouse click file at 5:00 am the next day.
9. Once you play around with recording your mouse clicks and playing the file back, you will see what you can do. For half hour shows, I record mouse clicks to shift-click 10 shows a night. Specifically, I use the search feature in PlayLater and record my mouse clicks to click file #1 then shift-click file #10 and click record. I do this for each series of 10 files because the buttons and other items move around.
This process took some trial and error play to get it right, but it works for me. Really well, I might add.
I hope this answers your questions. Reply and let me know if you need help setting up my system on your machine, if you choose to use it.
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david, Champion
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PlayLater says they are working on it. But I guess they've been saying that for like 3 years.
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This is how we watch the recordings. They sort in alphabetical order.
One note on the cancel and restart mouse click method: PlayLater creates a file when the recording starts. Restarting will create another file. Using the delete button will delete the newer version, thus you need to go into your PlayLater folder and delete the empty files manually, otherwise PlayOn on the Roku will show two listing for each program. The only real pain with my method.
As for the USB on your TV, only certain models support the use of media via USB. Most TVs use the USB port for firmware updates.
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The PlayOn channel is a Roku channel. You need to connect the Roku to the internet to get the channel. Then it communicates with your PC over a wireless network, not the internet. I have my computer and Roku both hard lined into my router (small house, one room) and I can use the PlayOn channel to stream the computer's content (downloaded with PlayLater) to the TV without moving anything. We have another Roku in the bedroom which is wireless and talks to the PC via the router (it streams the same, it's just way slower to load). So either method will work to access the computer's content.
The Roku is hooked up to the TV via an HDMI cable and to the router with a CAT5 cable (hard lined). The PC is also hooked to the router via CAT6 (CAT6 is faster but more expensive. The short 7 foot length was almost as much as the 50 foot length of CAT5. I download with CAT6 and stream with CAT5. Since PlayLater records in real time, it's not faster time wise, but the CAT6 seems to drop the connection way less often then when I had CAT5). We also stream content via the internet, so Roku is hooked up to the internet all the time. But we only have 25 GB a month, so we are cautious, but not stingey.
So, on the PlayLater website, I got the package which is being sold at $50 right now. ($35 must be an old price. But it's roughly what I remember paying). That includes the server (bit of PC software) which allows the media to stream to your TV, as well as their AdSkipper product (which is awesome with Hulu recorded media). Here are the instructions for getting the PlayOn channel on your Roku (http://www.playon.tv/supported-devices). You have to load it to your Roku account then the next time you have Roku on the internet, it will add it automatically. The PlayOn software also allows you to move media to your iDevice for use offline, i.e. planes, trains, and automobiles. Neat when you have a flight.
All of this together, buying the PlayLater/PlayOn/AdSkipper software, using PlayLater, and paying for the biggest Exede package, is still less then when we paid for DirectTV and 10 GB of internet with HughesNet. The free zone with Exede combined with PlayLater has cut the DirectTV out of our lives, with little lost in regards to missing our favorite shows or binge watching entire seasons of Orange is the New Black and Mad Men. It just takes a bit more planning and patience to record the programs during the week to binge watch on Friday and Saturday nights. Sometimes it's sad when four of your five episodes error out, and you only catch one going into Saturday night when you already binge watched on Friday, but it's not all bad. The method I use with PlayLater and the mouse click files has roughly a 95% success rate, I'd guess.
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It sounds like my biggest struggle is going to be cable lengths. If Roku needs to be HDMI connected to the TV (downstairs), the Roku needs to be adjacent to the TV (downstairs). That implies long cable runs from the Roku (downstairs) to the router (upstairs). The Laptop to router connection is okay since both are upstairs. Did I get that right? Or, does your wireless bedroom solution fit the bill for me?
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Not a problem. It took me a while to create a free zone solution. I'm glad I could share it. Reply here if you need any more help setting it up. I'm happy to help.
Jennifer
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Note that turning the modem off doesn't game the usage reporting since the statistics persist through a power outage and are reported on power up; but turning it off does ensure nothing is using data while powered off. One individual around here came up with the simple but effective use of an electrical timer that you can pick up at your local hardware store to schedule certain things. A limited satellite plan is the mother of invention.
Also be aware that the LNFZ can sometimes be late in kicking in - best to allow a sufficient buffer period going into and out of it when doing things unattended.
As you can probably see, coming here with an open mind, thinking outside the box, and not simply ranting often yields an imaginative. albeit cumbersome, solution needed when on satellite internet.
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Excellent and thoughtful advice. Thank you.
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PlayLater offers a 30-day money back guarantee. If you'd like to download the software, in addition to the Mouse Recorder Pro 2, I'd happily help you set it up to test it tonight. Then you'd have 30 days to figure out if the whole set up and either the PlayOn Roku channel or moving the external hard drive to plug into the Roku is a viable solution for capturing all the episodes of The Following. Let me know. I'm at my desk almost all day today.
I have to agree with Old Labs that the usage monitor is delayed. If The Following is a one hour show, you should expect to use 900-1000 MB per episode. The Free Zone does not count against your total, and if it did, I would have run out of data weeks ago. I have checked my usage before a live program, then after, then the next day and it took till the next morning to properly reflect the GB for a one hour episode.
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Use the 'record' button and start clicking on PlayLater setting up things to record. Go back to Mouse Recorder and stop the recording. Then stop the PlayLater recordings. You can save and play the mouse file to see if it works the same by itself that it did when you did it.
Use the Mouse Recorder Calendar to 'Add' a file. Add the file you just made and set the time to 11:59 pm (i'd set it for 2 minutes in the future and wait to see what happens, the set it again for 1159.
I built another file that stops the recording by right-clicking on the PlayLater icon in the task tray and pressing quit.
I hope this helps a bit. I can take some screen shots when I get home, but I'm only allowed to type in this box at work.
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Amber Hollands